I can see the wire break in the cable chain :'(

  • SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    I think I need more coffee. Does the chart show where the thermistor failed?

    I’m kind of worried that it’s not obvious and if it happened to me I’d miss it.

    Or is it that it doesn’t show? And, if so, that’s worrying since thermal runaway protection may not trigger properly.

    • Odious@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      +1. No idea what’s supposed to lead to this conclusion. I’d say that’s a bad PID tune.

      • ikidd@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        If you got used to looking at your graph and saw those dropouts, you start looking for a physical problem.

      • SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world
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        3 months ago

        That’s worrying then. He can see the wires broken but it still has enough connectivity to keep chugging.

        On the plus side if the thermistor broke enough that it would keep pumping heat into the system then thermal runaway protection should trigger at least.

        • IMALlama@lemmy.worldOP
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          3 months ago

          This is basically spot on. It’s not full open, but it’s close. This is the first print I’ve noticed it on. It wasn’t a long print, so I figured I would let it go and see what happened. If Klipper loses it for too long it will go into thermal shutdown. Ask me how I know :(

    • IMALlama@lemmy.worldOP
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      3 months ago

      There’s no way the hot end’s temperature is changing that much and that rapidly in such a small time period. Rapid 1-2 °C fluctuations? Sure. This is significantly bigger than that.

  • morbidcactus@lemmy.ca
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    3 months ago

    Too familiar with that plot, at least you diagnosed it quick and it was apparent, sometimes they show up super intermittent and are a pain to chase.

    I think I recall you having a break a while back ago on !vorondesign@lemmy.world, same spot?

    • IMALlama@lemmy.worldOP
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      3 months ago

      That was me, but in that case it was the heater wire and the break was in the y-chain. This break is in the x-chain. Based on a reply on the Voron design forum, I may not have left enough slack in my wire runs. The breaks always happen on the inside radius, right where a wire touches one of the links in the chain, so this seems like a decent theory.

      I think I’m going to completely rewire the hot end. On the fence about going to USB or CAN vs discreet wiring. Since I tend to print big things, I don’t think an umbilical is a great idea - it seems like it would not work that well in high z situations. My reverse bowden already snags things sometimes.