Sounds like the perfect thing to test and iterate and then use that to have something machined in metal.
Of course with some stronger materials it may be fine. But how resilient will the belts be from the tension/stress and is there any risk of injury when they snap?
Geordi’s Tip: Use a separate Holodeck for … personal things… to avoid embarrassing situations.
Fine, I’ll do it myself
-Thelectron
Klipper is a different beast but once you get it going it’s leaps and bounds ahead.
No more compiling and editing firmware. Since the Klipper firmware itself is built and deployed to the board so the logic of what features, pins, etc can be controlled by your pi.
E.g. the board is no longer the “brains” of the printer but the brain stem. Where the brain (the pi) tells it on pin A “tell this stepper motor to turn this”, on pin J “tell the heater to cycle on” etc.
Basically you download Klipper, look at a printer.cfg for the board you have, and then just use that as a starting point.
Here’s the generic printer.cfg for your new board
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg
The real power comes from having the option to use macros for things like START_PRINT and END_PRINT.
For example, when I added a Nevermore fan on an skr mini e3v3 board I just had to wire it, find the “pins for the plug” on the board and then add the necessary config change.
Didn’t work? Comment it out and restart firmware and you’re no worse than it not being there. Adjust, restart, and go.
So where I’d avoid a marlin update because of the hassle of building and updating I now just check for updates, ssh in and build it with a command and update the board over USB.
And that’s just to update the Klipper firmware on the board for whatever fixes/changes are needed for Klipper. For things like new macros or existing items changed around you just update the config and “restart” and it does the rest.
The only thing that you lose with an ender is the screen. Their screens aren’t dumb… they have their own weird firmware. Personally I just use the website and now the moonraker mobile app to control everything and I don’t bother with a screen at all.
Reported for script in title referencing mjt dot xss dot ht
I’m not going to click through to see what that is but just a heads up in the event anybody else opens this and their client renders it by mistake.
It may be easier to supply DC power directly to the soldering joints (at the right values after the converter) or even replacing that one component as using the jack itself.
So… they agitate material using sound to increase the volume of chemicals to smell?
Clever little Airbenders
A bunch of tiny lightbulbs that use twisted light and quantum mechanics to turn on or off.
Right. It looks so smooth.
Can even use cylinders to group some circular parts of the model together naturally so that the “glue” points are at the bottom inside the walls where they’re not obvious
And if you want to tank it without overtly tanking it.
“We will need to establish a review and governance board to establish standard data structures and reporting that can be used to drive the initiative.
It will need to be cross team and cross specialty so we should start by establishing a group to identify those people so we can proceed”
A year later and you’ll be lucky if they’ve even picked out who can be part of the review process let alone agree on some convention and adjusting their tooling and processes to make that work.
Odon’t you start spouting conspiracies. The Dominion would not approve… if it still existed, of course.
Range is 0.7. Not great but not as horrible as it looks in the display.
I’m not familiar with the Neptune and how, if at all, you adjust the bed screws but getting that range nearish to your layer size should do wonders.
Awesome but I wish it was more active. That being said the community is primarily located on the Discord channel as far as I can tell
Some vendors that sell LDO and other kits
https://west3d.com/collections/kits/LDO
https://kb-3d.com/store/151-shop-full-build-kits
There are others and you can check out the discord, YouTube channels like Nero 3D “The Canuck Creator” and “Steve Builds” for more info
Since you mention tweaking/adjusting/etc a Voron may be right for you.
There are kits for sourcing the majority of the stuff and then you build it yourself.
The Afterburner and Stealthburner are great for ABS out of the gate but there are toolheads that can also work with PLA such as DragonBurner.
The entire ecosystem is open especially if you’re using Klipper
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Here’s an even more magnified view of the perfectly smooth paper.
It’s supposed to be it tends to get brittle and fracture creating airborne shards that you can breath in but your body can’t break down and that continuously damages the cells leading to cancer.
Wouldn’t this be equally offset by the increase in inertia from their masses?