Always consider the “range” of the mesh. Just looking at the shape or the pretty colours will seem like the bed is completely borked even though it isn’t necessarily so in reality.
For example, look at your “range” value; it says that the difference between the highest and lowest point is 0.6004, which is in mm. Meaning: that difference is 0.6mm
That isn’t that much and not really something to worry about. In some cases, where the corners are different to the rest of the mesh, it could be that the wheels on the underside of your bed can be adjusted to make the bed flatter. This would require that your bed actually has those things but I wouldn’t necessarily bother with it since your range is already that low.
Makes sense, thank you
In addition to what others have said, it can also indicate different issues on different printers. Is it a core-xy or bedslinger?
If it’s not just an issue with a dished bed, there could be twist along your x-axis which are moving the nozzle (or probe) slightly further from the bed in the middle. Could be wire/bowden routing putting a slight strain on the toolhead.
Do the mesh results look roughly the same when cold versus, say, a 30 minute heat soak?
It’s an Ender 3 v3 CoreXZ. The filament sensor is on the right side. It is possible that when it reaches the right most side, it ‘bends’ the pfte/cables to its maximum and they put a strain? If so, how do I remedy it?
There does appear to be some level of curve within your bed mesh, but the skew of the bed definitely shows that the bed is not level across the X axis. If you have manual bed leveling, work on the adjustment across the X axis before taking new mesh samples. Mesh compensation will definitely do a decent job compensating for a skew even as large as four layers worth, but the dimensional accuracy of the bottom of your parts will take a good hit printing like that.
Make sure the edge of your bed isn’t resting on something it ought not to be and/or doesn’t have any crap stuck to the underside of it. My Qidi has two plastic tabs sticking up at the rear which are supposed to be end stops to assist you in lining up the magnetic plate back onto its base, but if you’re not careful you can wind up with the back edge of the base siting on top of them which has the net effect of making the build surface the equivalent of about a 1:64 scale skateboard quarter pipe. This has predictable results if you try to print anything on the back third of it or so.
I have a Concrete slab and a rubber paver underneath. I removed them, cleaned them, put the printer back on, and reran self check. Here’s the mesh now. Still a bend, but now everything is on or above the flat plane.
What I have used as a rule of thumb is to keep the difference below .2, .6 is a huge difference in my mind and is making your printer work much harder to compensate for the large difference.
Klipper with proper mesh and a reliable Probe on a fixed bed can handle 1mm range without any issues at all.
how would I do that?
either have something like KAMP handle your meshing adaptively before every print (takes more time every print, will work even with different bed);
or by having a fixed bed without any adjustable screws/etc., creating a proper bed_mesh (eg bicubic with an amount of probe_count on the higher side) and loading it in your print_start before every print. (will always work aslong as the bed/setup stays the same. Gotta remesh when you change beds)
