dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️

Progenitor of the Weird Knife Wednesday feature column. Is “column” the right word?

I make knives now, too. Why not buy one at flightlessforge.com?

  • 27 Posts
  • 1.55K Comments
Joined 3 years ago
cake
Cake day: July 20th, 2023

help-circle



  • You can extract the chip’s serial number in software trivially. In Windows, from a commandline:

    wmic cpu get pricessorid

    I’m positive you can do the same with some Linux command, and failing that certainly with basically every vaguely modern benchmarking tool. Same deal with hard drives and probably also video cards. My BIOS/UEFI even enumerates all my connected hard drive serial numbers on screen if I interrupt its graphical boot screen.

    Given that the anti-cheat schemes these competitive games are literal rootkits, I don’t think gathering the user’s hardware serial numbers in order to attempt identify them is much of a stretch.



  • A CNC for what, milling? If so, I agree with the others here. Using belts to drive a milling machine is likely to result in too much backlash to be viable. The entire point of ballscrews is that they’re (reasonably) proof against backlash, even moreso than regular lead screws. We can get away with it on our printers because in normal operation the print head and nozzle are never supposed to touch anything so it doesn’t matter. For milling, backlash in your movement system will cause your tool to kick itself off of the workpiece when its edges touch it (i.e. hundreds/thousands of times per minute) which will make it chatter, result in lousy finishes and accuracy on your parts at best, and most likely wind up with you breaking a lot of bits.

    Maybe you could get away with it if all you’re doing it routering wood, or something. The moment metal enters the equation, forget it.

    The key to milling is rigidity, rigidity, rigidity. If you are having chatter problems, accuracy problems, tool breakage problems, basically any kind of problem, nine times out of ten you’ll wind up tracing it back to backlash and/or your machine or clamping arrangement not being rigid enough in some capacity.





  • I tried to do an ABS print at PLA temperature once. That sure didn’t work. Vise-versa is also an interesting time, especially if you have the lid on the enclosure shut. If you think you’ve ever seen heat creep, try having PLA in the extruder but running it at 260°C and the chamber heater on. The resultant jam required stripping the entire extruder head down to its individual components and prying it apart in the process, but I put it all back together and it still works. I didn’t even have any screws left over by the time I was done.

    Like all Qidi X-Max 3 owners will eventually do at some point, I also once homed my machine without the steel build plate installed. This causes the machine to helpfully drill the nozzle straight into the soft magnetic surface between it and the heater plate. I shaved the high points off of the crater with a straight razor and continued to run that plate without any problems for several months after that. You’d never notice the difference, despite the hole in it.



  • You still need a camera body to attach it to. But yes, you can indeed spend any amount of money on lenses if you put your mind to it. And if you’ve decided you haven’t spent enough, you can always shoot yourself in the foot by picking up a camera that belongs to a different lens ecosystem than what you’ve already got and then start building up a pile of lenses for that…



  • There are apps specifically to prevent this sort of behavior. Many of them can be configured to chide the person for not repsecting boundaries. My favorite was one I had back in the Android 4.x days which took selfies of the holder, inevitably up their nose at an unflattering angle, if they kept trying to swipe. For some reason people were always ready to stop and hand the phone back in a big hurry once that was happening.