- cross-posted to:
- hackernews
- cross-posted to:
- hackernews
California’s new bill requires DOJ-approved 3D printers that report on themselves targeting general-purpose machines.
Assembly Member Bauer-Kahan introduced AB-2047, the “California Firearm Printing Prevention Act,” on February 17th. The bill would ban the sale or transfer of any 3D printer in California unless it appears on a state-maintained roster of approved makes and models… certified by the Department of Justice as equipped with “firearm blocking technology.” Manufacturers would need to submit attestations for every make and model. The DOJ would publish a list. If your printer isn’t on the list by March 1, 2029, it can’t be sold. In addition, knowingly disabling or circumventing the blocking software is a misdemeanor.
Oh boy, what’s a good not too expensive 3d printer to buy right now, preferably all FOSS? It hasn’t been on my short term shopping list but I figure if I’m ever likely to want one, better get it now. I remember the original RepRap. I think modern stuff is a lot better, but might have more closed source software.
Prusa or Qidi. Avoid Bambu.
Thanks, that sounds good. I saw a Prusa review a while back that was positive, so that also weighs in favor. I will shop around.
You can still get an Ender 3 (essentially the end result of RepRap). Every vendor has their own.
That said? If you buy a printer in 2025 (let alone 2026) and it does not have an integrated enclosure, you are opening yourself up to a world of hurt. The price difference isn’t that much anymore and even just having a box to hold the waste heat in solves like 90% of print problems.
Bambu are, above and beyond, the best bang for your buck. They ALSO are ahead of the curve on locking things down to support only their networked slicers. Which… is a huge concern with stuff like this.
Personally? I love the Qidi printers. I have a Q1 something or another and convinced a friend to get a different model. They use a semi-open fork of Klipper so you can theoretically make something work when it is abandoned. Which is good because the various CoreXY printers are no longer all based on the same standard so part kits aren’t (easily) interchangeable. And, of course, you can use Orcaslicer or whatever else you want.
Keep in mind that is all FDM. For Resin (SLA?), the ship has already sailed and people are genuinely happy to run slicers with literal fucking ads in them. Assuming the vendor doesn’t lock them out of even that garbage.
Thanks, yeah, I like the idea of an enclosed printer so that I can print outdoors (with an extension cord or portable power station) and not get my living room full of fumes. Is that a reasonable thing to want to do?
On a warm and dry day? Maybe?
But if it is cold? Some printers have built in heaters. They aren’t strong enough to handle that. And if it is moist? You ACTUALLY will be someone who needs to dry your filament and good luck.
As for fumes and microplastics? That is the other big advantage of the enclosures (that I tend to try to avoid mentioning because people are fucking stupid). Even with no filter you are going to be getting a lot of benefits from the residues and the like hitting the walls first. And most of the CoreXYs can trivially add an actual filter to the vent… many that you print yourself.
It isn’t the same as a proper exhaust system but… ain’t nobody doing that.
Hmm, ok, so much for that idea. I had hoped it wouldn’t depend much on ambient temperature and humidity. Thanks.
Do you recommend any FOSS CAD software for designing parts? I’ve played with OpenSCAD a bit and maybe that suffices, but I wonder what else there is.
Do yourself a favor: Learn on TinkerCAD/Fusion 360 or OnShape. No, they are not open source and both have some REALLY nasty caveats for free users. But both of those are THE most user friendly CAD tools out there and you’ll be able to google anything you need. Learn the fundamentals and the language first.
Once you have that down? FreeCAD is surprisingly not horrible these days and I think I even actually like it. But FreeCAD is still heavily restricted by being “for users, by coders” as it were. So operations that might take one step in every other tool could take three or four because that maps a lot better to the underlying math libraries. And you’ll need to constantly translate between what everyone else calls something and what FreeCAD calls it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaTNTUzA5dM is a very good video comparing the two (just watch it at like 1.25x because Deltahedra has a very very very slow speaking cadence…). But they key is that if you know what you are trying to do in the language everyone else speaks, translating that to FreeCAD becomes super easy. Rather than not even knowing how to ask for help in the first place.
OpenSCAD is REALLY nice for building something in a vacuum where you know every dimension you want and have very clean (or nonexistent) interfaces to existing geometry. But, odds are, the vast majority of what you are going to be doing is matching to reference images or even reference parts.
Thanks, yeah, my friends use Fusion 360. I don’t have a working Windows machine right now but maybe I can set something up or run under Wine.
Yeah right now what I want to do is duplicate a shower door guide which is a 3 inch plastic part with some specific grooves and a screw hole. It’s incredibly hard to find the right one online or tell that it’s right. Home Depot doesn’t even have that kind of thing in their store any more. I do at least have a reasonably intact one that I can measure with a caliper.
Yikes, a 28 minute video, but I guess I’ll watch it during some downtime at some point. Thanks again.