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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • I think I’ve given a cursory look at those a year or two ago. The main things I remember are that they are SMALL, and at least one model lacked a heated bed. The heated bed helps immensely with adhesion (will your print stick or just get dislodged, failing the job?) and the size is a practical constraint. For example resin printers can do exceptional quality items, but they’re going to be small. Pick a measuring tape of any kind, go measure a thing you’d like to make like maybe a pen holder or whatever you actually think you will want to print. I had a Monoprice Mini Select and it was a 12cm base, good for a lot, small for a lot. That thing can do a 10cm base. A quick visualization is that you will not squeeze a phone cover in that space!





  • Stampela@startrek.websiteto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldFreeCad in docker
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    7 months ago

    Yes, but your laptop is not liking the software, and now you are running it in a browser too. Unless the service offered by the container is remote control, then it’s not going to be of any help for you. Difference between running a HTML5 game in your browser, or GeForce Now: one runs locally, the other is just a video feed.


  • I don’t have any experience here, but everything seems to point towards the docker being just a way to install it for any machine, for ease of management, not a streaming/remote control situation where the software runs on the server, and you just see/interact with the video output. So probably the slowdown is caused by your laptop liking FreeCad even less once it’s running in your web browser.

    Obviously I can be way off, but this is what it looks to me.





  • So, fun issue those things can have: my Sovol SV07 Plus has one and it works great… or it did until the filament chewed through the plastic and made very awkward channels in and out of it. In itself no big deal, still goes through the sensor, but the issue is that it can be a bit too tight of a fit and get jammed. Like, HARD so you have to try pulling it both ways before it dislodges. It’s not a fun way for a print to fail. My workaround is to use a tiny bit of ptfe tube at the entrance, hot glued there so the filament will go straight. So far it’s been working.


  • Happy cake day!

    I mean, the question was about importing settings, PEEK or PLA wouldn’t make a substantial difference in “there’s a menu a little out of sight this way, you also need to do this and that in Cura” and, given how Cura was the top dog for the last few years, one would think that the new hotness would have a way to easily get people to switch. I don’t know how challenging that is from a technical perspective, but evidently it’s enough to not make it worth it to the developers… anyway I copied the speed settings, saved the profile as “0.18 decent” and since I was there, connected Klipper too. Ready for testing.

    That aside, wanting to find the simple way is different from lack of experience. I think I got that between putting together the aforementioned Ender 3, replacing the board with a SKR 3, and contextually adding a BLTouch, something that required editing and recompiling Marlin ;)